"They call this location the Bermuda Triangle of Transylvania," states a tour guide, his exhalation forming puffs of mist in the cold evening air. "Countless people have gone missing here, it's thought it's a portal to a parallel world." This expert is escorting a traveler on a evening stroll through frequently labeled as the globe's spookiest grove: Hoia-Baciu, a section spanning 640 acres of old-growth indigenous forest on the outskirts of the metropolis of Cluj-Napoca.
Reports of bizarre occurrences here date back a long time – the grove is called after a regional herder who is believed to have disappeared in the far-off times, along with his entire flock. But Hoia-Baciu achieved international attention in 1968, when an army specialist named Emil Barnea took a picture of what he reported as a UFO suspended above a circular clearing in the centre of the forest.
Many came in here and failed to return. But no need to fear," he states, turning to the visitor with a smile. "Our guided walks have a flawless completion rate."
In the years that followed, Hoia-Baciu has brought in yogis, traditional medicine people, ufologists and supernatural researchers from worldwide, eager to feel the strange energies believed to resonate through the forest.
Although it is a top global hotspots for lovers of the paranormal, this woodland is facing danger. The western suburbs of Cluj-Napoca – a modern tech hub of more than 400,000 people, described as the innovation center of Eastern Europe – are expanding, and real estate firms are campaigning for authorization to clear the trees to build apartment blocks.
Except for a limited section containing locally rare Mediterranean oak trees, the grove is not officially protected, but the guide is confident that the organization he co-founded – the Hoia-Baciu Project – will contribute to improving the situation, encouraging the local administrators to recognise the forest's importance as a visitor destination.
While branches and autumn leaves snap and crunch beneath their boots, the guide recounts various traditional stories and claimed ghostly incidents here.
Although numerous of the accounts may be unverifiable, there is much visibly present that is definitely bizarre. All around are vegetation whose stems are curved and contorted into bizarre configurations.
Different theories have been given to clarify the misshapen plants: powerful storms could have shaped the young trees, or inherently elevated radiation levels in the ground account for their strange formation.
But research studies have discovered inconclusive results.
Marius's tours allow participants to engage in a small-scale research of their own. Upon reaching the clearing in the woods where Barnea photographed his well-known UFO pictures, he passes the traveler an ghost-hunting device which detects energy patterns.
"We're entering the most powerful section of the forest," he comments. "See what you can find."
The trees suddenly stop dead as they step into a flawless round. The single plant life is the short grass beneath their shoes; it's obvious that it's not maintained, and looks that this strange clearing is organic, not the work of human hands.
The broader region is a place which stirs the imagination, where the division is blurred between reality and legend. In rural Romanian communities superstition remains in strigoi ("screamers") – supernatural, shapeshifting vampires, who return from burial sites to frighten regional populations.
The novelist's renowned fictional vampire is always connected with Transylvania, and the historic stronghold – a Saxon monolith perched on a rocky outcrop in the Carpathian Mountains – is actively advertised as "the count's residence".
But despite myth-shrouded Transylvania – literally, "the land past the woods" – appears real and understandable compared to these eerie woods, which give the impression of being, for factors nuclear, atmospheric or simply folkloric, a center for fantasy projection.
"Inside these woods," the guide states, "the division between truth and fantasy is extremely fine."
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